If you’re looking for a Thai adventure off the beaten path, Phu Kradueng National Park in Loei Province should be on your list. I recently spent a few days exploring this stunning plateau, and here’s everything I wish I’d known before going.
Watch Out for the Leeches!
Let’s get this out of the way first: there are no mosquitos up here, but there ARE leeches.
I learned this the hard way when a friend woke up in the middle of the night with blood all over his shirt—a leech had been feeding on him while he slept. Check your clothes, shoes, and tent thoroughly. They’re sneaky little creatures.
It’s Like Walking Into a Savannah
The landscape at the top surprised me. It’s not the dense jungle you might expect—it’s more like an African savannah with open grasslands, pine trees, and incredible viewpoints. The terrain is unique and absolutely worth the climb.
A Small Town on a Mountain
Once you reach the top, you’ll find it’s bustling with activity. There are restaurants, shops, and accommodation options everywhere. It genuinely feels like a small town up there, complete with:
- Chargers everywhere - Almost every restaurant has outlets, so don’t stress about your phone dying
- Massage services - Trust me, after the hike up, you’ll want one. It’s so good after a long day of hiking or biking!
- Bike rentals - A great way to explore, though navigating around walkers on shared trails can be tricky
Look Up at Night
One of the most magical parts of Phu Kradueng? The stars. With minimal light pollution, the night sky is absolutely stunning. Don’t forget to look up.
Food: The Good and the Not-So-Good
Not all food up here is created equal. Here are my recommendations:
Must-Try
- Kai Song Khrueng (ไข่ทรงเครื่อง) - I tried this “egg with toppings” dish for the first time at Yaeb Mek Cliff Restaurant. It’s eggs served with various savory toppings—delicious!
- Watermelon - Get it. After hiking in the heat, nothing is more refreshing
- The coffee shop at the end of the trail - They use Starbucks beans brewed in a moka pot, served in glass tumblers. I got the mocha and it was amazing
Skip These
- The breakfast on day 2 at one of the restaurants—the jook (rice porridge), egg-grata, and pentago were disappointing. Go with local recommendations instead.
Practical Tips
Here are some things that made the trip easier:
- Bring or rent walking sticks - They’re a huge help on the steep trails
- Request two pillows - The accommodations are basic, and an extra pillow makes sleeping much more comfortable
- Budget for the luggage tag fee - It’s only 5 THB per person each way, but good to know in advance
- Bikes are great, but be patient - The trails are shared with walkers, so navigate carefully
Final Thoughts
Phu Kradueng is one of those places that rewards the effort to get there. Yes, the hike is challenging. Yes, you might encounter a leech or two. But the savannah landscapes, starry nights, and mountaintop village atmosphere make it an unforgettable experience.
Just remember: check for leeches before bed.
Have you been to Phu Kradueng? I’d love to hear your tips—reach out at hello@davidtan.me!